Hey, everyone.

Long story short: after a month of not touching my MiSTer kit, the User I/O port (the USB 3.0 Micro B connector on the BlisSTer hub) snapped off, clinging to the patch cable like a cat to a stuffed mouse.

I plan on ordering a replacement - either another BlisSTer or the official hub - but in the meantime, can I till use the MiSTer as is, or with just a normal off-the-shelf USB hub?

If so, what's the proper way to connect it? There's something resembling a USB 3.0 port on the I/O board, but it's labeled "Not USB! User Port", so I don't know if I should be shoving keyboards and the like into it. There's also the "USB Host" Micro connector on the DE-10 Nano board that was connected to the original hub with a bracket, which seems like the more likely candidate, but it'd probably need some sort of funky Micro to Type B adapter to use with a hub.

Thanks.

This may be a noob questiob, but I want to make sure I understand the setup, and am not missing anything. I have some SNES controllers (3rd party old Skool brand, so I get that might be the problem). I'm finding it hard to discover explicit resources detailing the adapters for snac to HDMI that I need.

For less ambiguity, here is a picture of the cable setup I have: https://imgur.com/a/0VIdubM .

I accidently ordered a snac to HDMI adapter, instead of snac to usb. So to compensate, I ordered the bliss box cable for snes. I have the analog io board 6.0. So per the instructions on the snac board I broke the jumper (I figured I could always re solder the connection if this was a mistake anyways).

So I have: snac to HDMI plugged into my mister user io port via the extension usb cable it came with, then I have my SNES blissbox cable plugged into the HDMI end. I plug my controller into the cable directly and enabled snac in my mister SNES menu. The controller doesn't work at all, could there be any issue with my setup that I am missing, or is it really hyper specific to first party oem controllers?

Do any of you knowledgeable people know how to map the F2 key to a controller?

I've been searching but cant seem to find a definitive answer....

Hi

I was wondering if it's already possible to run MSU1 SNES Games off MiSTer?

Is it working?

Is anyone working on it?

Thanks for any info on this.

Does the Mister PSU provide enough juice for a mechanical keyboard with backlighting? It's not that easy to find a cheapish keyboard that doesn't have some sort of backlight, RGB or just single color. I just got a new standing desk and thought I could grab a cheap mechanical keyboard and use it with both my work laptop and the mister since I'm more interested in the computer cores on it anyway.

hello

ive seen this device popping up on retro streamers

i have 2 android boxes for emulation that run pretty much anything (minus recent mame games like deathsmiles that require a lot of cpu)

and i can use my bluetooth controllers too

i asked them what it is, but i dont clearly understand ; more accurate emulation?

TL;DR: The micro USB port on an Arduino Pro Micro is not meant to be constantly plugged / unplugged and will most likely break eventually if you don't compensate for it somehow.

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So far I've built 3 Daemonbite adapters: a double SNES, a double Sega, and an arcade encoder.

One of those (the Sega one) is not like the others in that instead of some permanent wiring solution, I just exposed the Arduino's micro USB port. This was a mistake.

I'd used it for a session a month or so ago and tossed in a box after (along with my other MiSTer controller stuff). When I went to get it out again, it wasn't being recognized by anything (neither MiSTer nor my PC). As it turned out, the micro USB port had started to break off of the Arduino and while I was looking over it to see if I could repair the board, I noticed that the solder joints around the connector all looked like cold joints. Also, there are two places on the sides of the port that are supposed to be anchor points and those hardly had any solder on them at all. I did make an attempt to reflow the connector but it never worked right again.

So what to do about this? Ideally, you should get some kind of intermediate wiring so you aren't constantly plugging / unplugging things into this fragile little port. For my arcade stick, I just plugged in a cable and clamped it where it exited the enclosure as a strain relief. For my SNES adapter, I got some micro USB plugs with solder pads on them and soldered a USB cable with strain relief to it. It also doesn't hurt to reinforce the anchor points on the port with some extra solder but make sure you don't use too much or it will go into the USB connector and you won't be able to plug anything in (guess how I learned that). Fortunately, some desoldering braid took care of that.

Since I already had this adapter mostly built and the enclosure doesn't have room for extra wiring (it's tiny), I just reinforced the port a little and will be using a right-angle USB cable that stays permanently attached. I'll probably rebuild it some time with a better enclosure and wiring but for now I think this setup will probably do fine.

Link to Intel's eASIC-page

I'm having some trouble getting this to work. Has anyone managed to get it to work?

With interfaces like SNAC being out for consoles, is there an equivalent for USB to arcade interface PCBs? Is there a recommended vendor or style? Brook? Reynas (cheap AMZ/eBay encoders)? I-PAC? Not all home arcades are equipped with JAMMA interfaces, looking for DIY USB solutions.

Hi guys.

So I was setting up my DE-10 Nano for the MiSTer. I don't have an IO board, and wanted to attach a fan to the case I have. Since the fan's (a 12v one) connector doesn't attach to the GPIO pins, and I don't have adapters for the wires, in a whim I decided to test if it'd fit into the 2x7 LTC Header, and to my surprise, it did fit and I found two concurrent pins that give voltage and ground respectivelly, making the fan spin just fine.

Now I did'nt find any information about the LTC Header itself. Are there any potential issues tha can arise from a fan being plugged there? Does it give 3.3v or 5v?

I'm also using one of the ground pins from the 2x5 ADC Header pins on a red LED, but I guess since it's just ground it doesn't matter.